No brief words can articulate how radically the journalism landscape has changed since then. Yes, customers usually were paying full price from the moment a place opened, but the goal was to be fair about letting a business find its footing for a few weeks before pouncing. The rule - maybe unspoken, maybe gleaned at the conferences I regularly attended that were held by the now-defunct Association of Food Journalists, I can’t recall - was that you gave restaurants a month before reviewing them. cities, there were three major critics: one at the daily newspaper, one at the alternative newsweekly (that was me) and the third at the monthly city magazine. That went fast.) Back then, as in most U.S. But somewhere in the middle of it I flashed to the beginning of my critic career in Atlanta 21 years ago. Waiting to write a review until Kinn had settled more into its identity, and developed into the destination I now believe it to be, felt organic. You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times. I’m going to give it some time before I write about it.Ī year and a half later, The Times published my review this week. The meal finished and I thought: This place is enormously promising. The original includes vanilla ice cream, a strawberry gel center and a chocolate crunch exterior Kim’s homage-in-a-bowl was built around milk ice cream with a chunky strawberry puree, crumbled cookies and, teetering on top, thin shortbread cut out in the shape of a pig. Dessert was a clever course called Pig Ice Cream that drew from the flavors of a Korean frozen treat called Pig Bar. Become a subscriber.Īfterward there was mackerel showered with grated horseradish, which reminded me of the combination of gefilte fish and horseradish I’ve had at friends’ Passover seders dehydrated and marinated beets that mimicked galbi and a rice course that invoked ssambap but with wilted spinach rather than lettuce wraps. Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most. Enjoying this newsletter? Consider subscribing to the Los Angeles Times
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